Michael Lastoria, chief executive officer of &Pizza, a Washington, D.C.-based chain with 36 locations up and down the East Coast, is tall, slim, and serene, with a full beard and brown hair that falls past his shoulders. When I meet him, on a warm spring day inside an &Pizza location in Manhattan’s NoMad district, he’s wearing a black silk shirt, a black cape, cropped black pants with long black socks, and a pair of black Wu Wear Wallabee boots: what Jesus might look like if he walked in a Yohji Yamamoto show.